Choosing a partly-trained sheepdog or cattle dog
Buying a partly trained dog can shortcut the long process of getting from puppy to working stage. What should you bear in mind when choosing a partly-trained sheepdog or cattle dog?
The most difficult stage of training is getting initial control initially. If you buy a started dog, the hard work has already been done. Many people don’t feel able to train a puppy but REMEMBER – you need patience and understanding whatever your choice.
Sometimes it can take months for a young and maybe sensitive dog to settle with a new handler. If you’re a complete novice, you can do harm along the way if you aren’t sensitive to this.
Sheepdog auctions
Sheepdog auctions are popular in the UK these days, but bear in mind the risks involved. There may not be provision to return dog that doesn’t suit you, so you may be left with a problem.
Bear in mind also, that a good trainer can make a mediocre dog look very proficient to the onlooking crowd.
Buying from a trainer
A reputable trainer will give you a period during which you can return the dog if it doesn’t suit you. We always offered a thirty-day “no-quibble” guarantee. If it isn’t offered, make a point of asking.
The time it takes for a dog to settle in with you will depend on its age and temperament. Keep in mind that the older the dog, the longer it’s likely to take, but be patient whatever the age. This process can take several weeks, or even months for older dogs.
Once the dog’s settled in, you’ll be able to advance its training fairly quickly. The more dogs learn, the easier it seems to teach them new skills. A partly or even more highly trained dog is ideal for a busy farmer unless training sheepdogs is a hobby. Even at the prices trained dogs can fetch, there is no question which is the more economic way. A farmer can use his time far more profitably with his stock than training a dog.
Viewing a potential new dog
If you decide on a partly-trained dog, try to take someone with you who understands what you need. Make certain you see the dog working and study its behaviour – particularly when it’s close to the handler.
Don’t worry too much if the dog’s not so controllable when it’s further away from the handler. At this stage, it’s natural for the dog to resort to its own agenda when it’s working at a distance. This will improve as the dog’s confidence grows.
Do take note though, of how far away from the handler the dog will work efficiently. Until it settles and bonds with you, it’s unlikely that the dog will work for you at a distance. Be patient with a new dog.
Assess the body language
Is the dog happy to come away from the sheep when the handler calls it? If it doesn’t, further training will be much harder for you until you can reach that stage. Called away from sheep the dog should obey, perhaps a little reluctantly, and be keen to get back to work.
Does the dog move around the sheep in a smooth and workmanlike manner, or is it bouncing around playfully? Is the dog too fast – does it rush around and startle the sheep?
Farmers and triallers need dogs that know when to be tough and when they must be gentle. If the dog is harassing the sheep unnecessarily, leave it alone. This type of dog is likely to be hard to train and best left to an expert.
Equally, the dog must demonstrate command of the sheep – does it approach them with quiet confidence? Watch the dog’s tail – does it come up when the dog’s working close to the sheep? Bear in mind that a rising tail is a reliable sign that the dog’s lacking confidence or is excited. It may well settle down, but it could be difficult to train in the meantime.
Commands – voice and whistle
If the dog you’re buying is on whistle commands, ask the sheepdog seller to demonstrate them while you record the sounds with your mobile phone. This will enable you to practice at home.
Record whistle commands from some distance away, as the sound level is very high and will distort horribly if you’re too close. Do a quick test and listen to it before you start recording the commands properly.Wrapping the recording device in a handkerchief it will help to reduce wind noise.
If you can’t record directly to your phone, call your home or mobile voicemail service and record onto that.
Try to decide who the dog’s working for. Is he working for the handler, or for himself? This is important. If the dog is pleasing itself, again, it will be harder to train.
Listen to the commands and whistles the handler is using on the dog. To make the changeover as smooth as possible, you’ll need to replicate these as closely as possible. This can be trickier than you would imagine – sometimes a dog will ignore a whistle command which is made by his normal handler in the usual way but on a different whistle! Don’t be surprised if it takes a while for your dog to understand what you’re trying to tell it.
It’s worth considering accents too. The dog can be confused if the seller had a strong accent which is different from yours. However, a keen dog will soon adapt to completely new commands if given a chance.
What do you want?
I like a started dog to stop reasonably well behind the sheep. I want it to circle IN BOTH DIRECTIONS. And I want it to keep the sheep together, not split them up. It shouldn’t cross over if it’s capable of a short outrun (say thirty or forty metres or so) .
The started dog should be focussed on the sheep and enthusiastic in its work, but not wildly fast or aggressive. When commanded, it should resign itself to coming away from the sheep, but be keen to get back to work. If a dog who shows these traits should be easy, and a pleasure, to train on to a higher level.
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